關於餐飲業暗語昔今之價值觀

William Poon  潘偉廉

williampoon

According to people of my father’s generation, the 1930s and 40s saw a great trend in the use of jargon, or specialist terminology, in the catering trade. Indeed, it became somewhat of an obsession with restaurateurs uttering it in every sentence, to the extent that it gave rise to much confusion and misinterpretation.

上世紀三四十年代曾風靡一時之餐飲業暗語(術語),據父執輩言道;當時有點走火入魔,業內人士開口都是它,以致其間不少混淆及麻煩滋生。

 

 

English Translation

 

According to people of my father’s generation, the 1930s and 40s saw a great trend in the use of jargon, or specialist terminology, in the catering trade. Indeed, it became somewhat of an obsession with restaurateurs uttering it in every sentence, to the extent that it gave rise to much confusion and misinterpretation.

The jargon originated from a particular type of code word that was prevalent at the time and known as “swallow twitters”. Apart from influencing the food and beverage business, it also spread to other spheres, including codes used by secret societies such as underworld gangs. It thus became a source of great, yet unnecessary, trouble and vexation.

Consequently, by the early ’50s, it had begun to disappear. Unless one knew someone older who was familiar with this terminology, therefore, the large majority of people would not know how to respond on hearing it except to stare blankly, as might a monk of the late ’50s emerging after a period of prolonged seclusion.

I am raising this subject here, not to flaunt my knowledge, but rather to express an opinion, namely, that this kind of terminology should be an integral part of our food culture. With the passing of time, I can now recall but little of the jargon that once would have flowed freely from my tongue. This article offers some modest pointers to solicit valuable comments from others, in the hope that those more qualified than myself may use their talents to turn this jargon into a legacy for future generations.

 

繁體

 

上世紀三四十年代曾風靡一時之餐飲業暗語(術語),據父執輩言道:當時有點走火入魔,業內人士開口都是它,以致其間不少混淆及麻煩滋生。查本行之術語脫胎自當時之一種名爲燕子話之暗語;而燕子話除却演變出飲食業之暗語之外,還衍生出很多不同行業之術語,包括當時青紅兩幫部份之海底切口。由是而牽引出甚多不必要之麻煩和苦惱,是以故在五十年代初即開始湮沒。若在五十年代後期落髮者,假若未曾接觸過熟稔此類術語之前輩,驟聞之下,倘不瞠然無以為對者,幾稀矣。老潘今日重提,並非是炫耀,只竊意以爲,此亦應屬飲食文化之一部份而已。唯年月久遠,當年衝口而出之術語,今日憑記憶仍能說出者,只是有限。此文之撰,可稱拋磚引玉,望有高人續以貂,庶亦可傳世也。


飲食業暗語之例:

粵語:   喂,老陳好請飲茶啦喎。
行話:   喂,老陳好雞頸勝審薑子牙啦喎。

粵語:   喂,老潘借住啲錢嚟先得唔得?
行話:   喂,老潘 XX (此兩字猶如二胡所發之聲) 住啲豆皮得冇。

粵語:   我無錢喎。
行話:   我頂肚豆皮喎。

粵語:   阿和,去叫大佬食飯。
行話:   大泡,去嗲吊大佬捨擦羅成。

粵語:   喂,睇睇啲雞有冇餿到。
行話:   喂,眼鬼下啲墮洛有冇大碌竹。

粵語:   喂,今水叫啲鴨細喎,下水叫番大啲。
行話:   喂,今水啲扁嘴閉翳左,下水叫番百敗啲。

粵語:   王先生,令尊貴庚呀?
行話:   王腥,你把傘擺柳幾百敗呀?

粵語:   我老媽今年九十五咯。
行話:   燒數簿駒口個云古咯。

粵語:   喂,你老婆係唔係大咗肚呀?
行話:   喂,你起泡支鵝個豬小係唔係百敗咗呀?

粵語:   個老坑係你乜人呀?
行話:   只大瓦撐係你邊個?

粵語:   阿成,兜嘢臭咗喎。
行話:   吊頸,兜嘢吽哣咗喎。

粵語:   咦,個大姑娘好靚喎。
行話:   咦,個滴撘好抹玻璃喎。

粵語:   喂,個細路仔去咗邊?                 
行話:   喂,個閉翳豆泥去咗邊?

 

暗語參考類別


數目類:

1(丁),2(如此),3(星金),4(色利),5(雲古),6(獵足),7(蒸古),8(辟發),9(駒口),10(馬立及),100(梁山),1000(霸王鞭)。

例:你要說"1500",行家會說成"丁個霸王鞭雲古個梁山"。


人物類:

爹(把傘),媽(燒數簿),丈夫(起泡支葱),妻子(起泡支鵝),仔(吊黎),女(卜卜脆),大姐(梳發歪),妹(咸酸),你(鐵拐),我(亞喎),佢(亞徐),人(陳大文),佬(鹹水草),老傢伙(起泡大瓦罉),妓女(起泡柳亞水)。

例:你要說"佢個仔個老婆係你邊個?",行家會說成"亞徐只起泡支鵝係鐵拐邊個?"。


食品類:

茶(薑子牙),飯(羅成),酒(土耳狗),粥(浮丘叔),麵(黃金殿),粉(監躉),包(金絲猫),魚(厘洞薯),餅(鶏頸),烟(桂仙),米(黃絲蟻),鶏(法蘭西)。


形容及動作物品:

老(起泡),靚(省鏡),大(八敗),細(閉翳),有(打柳),冇(頂肚),贏(羅鬥檠),輸(凸眼珠),盲(澄尋撑),多(波梳),少(橋渺),好(割草),爛(二百萬),白(羊額),黑 [ 激框(讀音 kwak)],紅(大燈籠),鹹(岩巉),濕 [ 罯(讀音 up) 執 ] ,充——這裏是假冒之意(劉中),痛(解貢),叫(嗲吊),衰(煎堆),行(棹橫),打(千把),去(拉鋸),食(舍策),講(劈榜),錢(豆皮),喊(太監),買(擺軑),坐(打座),契(李世貴),睇(眼鬼),飲(姓沈),笑(打照),生(打更),死(枸杞),病(姓鄭),瞓(矇眼振),出(律卒),痾(奔波),請(鶏頸),揸(枒叉),姣(拋錨),衫(四季貪),褲(周大顧),鞋(陳國槐),艇(葫蘆領),攤——這裏是指番攤之攤(荔枝灣),肚(張果老),餿(大碌竹),入行(落發)。

 

 

简体

 

上世纪三四十年代曾风靡一时之餐饮业暗语(术语),据父执辈言道:当时有点走火入魔,业内人士开口都是它,以致其间不少混淆及麻烦滋生。查本行之术语脱胎自当时之一种名为燕子话之暗语;而燕子话除却演变出饮食业之暗语之外,还衍生出很多不同行业之术语,包括当时青红两帮部份之海底切口。由是而牵引出甚多不必要之麻烦和苦恼,是以故在五十年代初即开始湮没。若在五十年代后期落发者,假若未曾接触过熟稔此类术语之前辈,骤闻之下,倘不瞠然无以为对者,几稀矣。老潘今日重提,并非是炫耀,只窃意以为,此亦应属饮食文化之一部份而已。唯年月久远,当年冲口而出之术语,今日凭记忆仍能说出者,只是有限。此文之撰,可称抛砖引玉,望有高人续以貂,庶亦可传世也。


饮食业暗语之例:

粤语:   喂,老陈好请饮茶啦喎。
行话:   喂,老陈好鸡颈胜审姜子牙啦喎。

粤语:   喂,老潘借住啲钱嚟先得唔得?
行话:   喂,老潘 XX (此两字犹如二胡所发之声) 住啲豆皮得冇。

粤语:   我无钱喎。
行话:   我顶肚豆皮喎。

粤语:   阿和,去叫大佬食饭。
行话:   大泡,去嗲吊大佬舍擦罗成。

粤语:   喂,睇睇啲鸡有冇馊到。
行话:   喂,眼鬼下啲堕洛有冇大碌竹。

粤语:   喂,今水叫啲鸭细喎,下水叫番大啲。
行话:   喂,今水啲扁嘴闭翳左,下水叫番百败啲。

粤语:   王先生,令尊贵庚呀?
行话:   王腥,你把伞摆柳几百败呀?

粤语:   我老妈今年九十五咯。
行话:   烧数簿驹口个云古咯。

粤语:   喂,你老婆系唔系大咗肚呀?
行话:   喂,你起泡支鹅个猪小系唔系百败咗呀?

粤语:   个老坑系你乜人呀?
行话:   只大瓦撑系你边个?

粤语:   阿成,兜嘢臭咗喎。
行话:   吊颈,兜嘢吽哣咗喎。

粤语:   咦,个大姑娘好靓喎。
行话:   咦,个滴撘好抹玻璃喎。

粤语:   喂,个细路仔去咗边?                 
行话:   喂,个闭翳豆泥去咗边?

 

暗语参考类别


数目类:

1(丁),2(如此),3(星金),4(色利),5(云古),6(猎足),7(蒸古),8(辟发),9(驹口),10(马立及),100(梁山),1000(霸王鞭)。

例:你要说"1500",行家会说成"丁个霸王鞭云古个梁山"。


人物类:

爹(把伞),妈(烧数簿),丈夫(起泡支葱),妻子(起泡支鹅),仔(吊黎),女(卜卜脆),大姐(梳发歪),妹(咸酸),你(铁拐),我(亚喎),佢(亚徐),人(陈大文),佬(咸水草),老家伙(起泡大瓦罉),妓女(起泡柳亚水)。

例:你要说"佢个仔个老婆係你边个?",行家会说成"亚徐只起泡支鹅係铁拐边个?"。


食品类:

茶(姜子牙),饭(罗成),酒(土耳狗),粥(浮丘叔),面(黄金殿),粉(监趸),包(金丝猫),鱼(厘洞薯),饼(鸡颈),烟(桂仙),米(黄丝蚁),鸡(法兰西)。


形容及动作物品:

老(起泡),靓(省镜),大(八败),细(闭翳),有(打柳),冇(顶肚),赢(罗斗檠),输(凸眼珠),盲(澄寻撑),多(波梳),少(桥渺),好(割草),烂(二百万),白(羊额),黑 [ 激框(读音 kwak)],红(大灯笼),咸(岩巉),湿 [ 罯(读音 up) 执 ] ,充——这里是假冒之意(刘中),痛(解贡),叫(嗲吊),衰(煎堆),行(棹横),打(千把),去(拉锯),食(舍策),讲(劈榜),钱(豆皮),喊(太监),买(摆轪),坐(打座),契(李世贵),睇(眼鬼),饮(姓沈),笑(打照),生(打更),死(枸杞),病(姓郑),瞓(矇眼振),出(律卒),痾(奔波),请(鸡颈),揸(枒叉),姣(抛锚),衫(四季贪),裤(周大顾),鞋(陈国槐),艇(葫芦领),摊——这里是指番摊之摊(荔枝湾),肚(张果老),馊(大碌竹),入行(落发)。

 

Author 作者

 

William Poon is one of five children born into a catering family. As a young boy, he would assist in the kitchen, where he inherited the techniques of roasting, stewing and wind-drying, while at the same time gaining experience in other restaurants in such areas as dimsum, general cooking and bakery. An offer of employment brought Mr Poon to the UK in 1967. A year later, he was contracted by the Hong Kong Government to cater for Hong Kong students in Britain. In 1971, he established Poon's Wind-Dried Products Factory. Poon's Restaurant opened in 1973 and was the first of a chain totalling seven at its peak and whose Covent Garden branch was awarded a Michelin star in 1980 as Best Chinese Restaurant in London. Mr Poon sold his business in early 2003 and is presently enjoying retirement.

 

 

潘五自述:因家中操飲食業,某自沖齡即於廚中摘蔥剝蒜度菜薳,除卻燒、鹵、臘屬家傳,在外食肆歷遍點、廚、餅各部職位。1967受聘抵英。1968年杪與港英政府簽署合約,承辦香港留學生福食。1971年創立潘記臘味。1973年首間潘記飯店開業,1976年開設之潘記酒樓在1980年獲米芝蓮提名為倫敦最佳中菜食府。全盛時期,倫敦加上歐洲共有七間潘記。2003年頭,全線出售退休。

 

 

潘五自述:因家中操饮食业,某自冲龄即于厨中摘葱剥蒜度菜薳,除却烧、卤、腊属家传,在外食肆历遍点、厨、饼各部职位。1967受聘抵英。1968年杪与港英政府签署合约,承办香港留学生福食。1971年创立潘记腊味。1973年首间潘记饭店开业,1976年开设之潘记酒楼在1980年获米芝连提名为伦敦最佳中菜食府。全盛时期,伦敦加上欧洲共有七间潘记。2003年头,全线出售退休。

 

Translator 譯者

 

Peng Wenlan read French & German at Leeds University, Modern Chinese at Cambridge University and Classical Chinese at Peking University.  She was formerly a translator/editor at the Foreign Languages Press in Beijing and senior lecturer in Bi-Lingual Translation at Westminster University.  She continues to do freelance translation in her spare time.

 

 

彭文蘭先後在利茲大學攻讀法語和德語,在劍橋大學攻讀現代漢語,在北京大學攻讀古代漢語,曾在北京外文出版社任職翻譯與編輯,也曾在威斯敏斯特大學擔任雙語翻譯高級講師。現在,她閒暇時仍從事自由翻譯工作。

 

 

彭文兰先后在利兹大学攻读法语和德语,在剑桥大学攻读现代汉语,在北京大学攻读古代汉语,曾在北京外文出版社任职翻译与编辑,也曾在威斯敏斯特大学担任双语翻译高级讲师。现在,她闲暇时仍从事自由翻译工作。